Chiang Mai, the heart of northern Thailand, is not just known for its temples and scenic beauty but also for its rich culinary heritage. The Lanna Kingdom, which ruled the region for centuries, left behind a unique gastronomic legacy that is distinct from the more familiar Thai cuisine found in central Thailand. While many of these ancient recipes have faded from daily use, a new wave of chefs, food historians, and local communities are working to revive the forgotten flavors of Lanna cuisine—bringing traditional dishes, ingredients, and cooking techniques back to life. Here’s a detailed exploration of this culinary revival, where to find these dishes, and how they’re being integrated into modern Chiang Mai.

A Taste of History: The Origins of Lanna Cuisine

Lanna cuisine is influenced by the northern region’s geography, which is characterized by mountains, forests, and rivers. This terrain has shaped a cuisine that relies heavily on fresh herbs, local vegetables, and meats. Unlike the spicier dishes from southern Thailand, Lanna food is known for its more subtle use of chilies, along with earthy, smoky flavors and fragrant herbs like lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and galangal.

Traditional Lanna dishes were often slow-cooked or grilled, reflecting the community-oriented lifestyle of the Lanna people, where meals were a social activity. The sticky rice (or khao niaow) that accompanies most meals plays a central role in Lanna dining, along with grilled meats, preserved fish, and spicy relishes called nam prik.

Reviving Ancient Recipes: The Chefs and Communities Leading the Way

In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in ancient Lanna recipes, thanks in part to a growing global demand for authentic, regional cuisine. Local chefs, historians, and food enthusiasts are digging through old family recipes, historical records, and village traditions to bring these forgotten dishes back to modern plates.

1. Chef Phakinee Tantakit at Huen Phen Restaurant

Located in the heart of Chiang Mai, Huen Phen is famous for its focus on authentic Lanna cuisine. Chef Phakinee has played a key role in bringing ancient recipes to the forefront. Specialties include gaeng hoh, a stir-fried dish with fermented bamboo shoots, pork belly, and an aromatic blend of local herbs, and khanom jeen nam ngiaw, a noodle dish with a tangy tomato broth, pork, and dried chilies.
Huen Phen is also known for its commitment to sourcing ingredients from local farmers who use traditional growing methods, ensuring the authenticity of the flavors.

2. Chef Charoen Saeng at Khao Soi Khun Yai

Although Khao Soi, the beloved coconut curry noodle soup, has gained international fame, Chef Charoen Saeng at Khao Soi Khun Yai has stayed true to its traditional roots. The recipe dates back to her grandmother’s time, and her restaurant serves a version that is deeply aromatic and much less sweet than the modern adaptations you might find elsewhere.
The focus here is on maintaining the balance of spices and herbs that originally defined this dish, providing a window into how it would have tasted in the Lanna Kingdom.

Must-Try Dishes: Forgotten Lanna Recipes You Can Still Find

While some dishes have all but disappeared from daily menus, a handful of Lanna recipes are being revived, both in local homes and restaurants. Here are a few that you can still find if you know where to look:

1. Sai Oua (Northern Thai Sausage)

Sai Oua is a herbed pork sausage unique to northern Thailand, made with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, and a generous dose of chilies. Its origins trace back to the traditional preservation techniques used in Lanna, where meats were spiced and cured to last longer in the region’s humid climate. Though you can find versions of this sausage across Chiang Mai, for an authentic taste, try Huen Muan Jai, a restaurant known for its dedication to traditional Lanna recipes.

2. Laab Dip (Raw Laab)

While most people know laab as a spicy minced pork salad, the traditional version—laab dip—is made from raw, minced meat mixed with fresh herbs and ground spices. Historically, this dish was a symbol of strength and vitality, though its raw preparation has faded in popularity.

3. Tam Khanun (Jackfruit Salad)

A dish native to the northern hills, tam khanun is a salad made from young jackfruit, pounded with a blend of garlic, shallots, and dried chilies. It’s typically served warm and has a rich, slightly tangy flavor. Khum Vieng Yong is one of the few places in Chiang Mai where you can still find this traditional dish on the menu.

Sustainable Sourcing and Modern Interpretations

One of the reasons why Lanna cuisine is making a comeback is the region’s emphasis on sustainability. Heirloom ingredients, many of which are integral to these recipes, are being cultivated using organic methods that mirror traditional Lanna farming practices. Organizations like the Royal Project Foundation, which has long supported sustainable agriculture in northern Thailand, have played a key role in promoting the use of indigenous plants and ancient crops.

Additionally, restaurants like Pun Pun Organic Farm are not only reviving these dishes but are also growing their own ingredients, ensuring that the flavors remain true to the past. Modern chefs are putting their spin on ancient recipes, but with an emphasis on keeping the integrity of the original flavors intact.

How You Can Experience Lanna Cuisine

To truly experience the revival of Lanna cuisine, there are a few ways to immerse yourself in the flavors and traditions of northern Thailand:

Take a Lanna Cooking Class: Many local cooking schools now offer courses focused specifically on traditional Lanna cuisine, including dishes like khao kha moo (pork leg stew) and gaeng hang lay (Burmese-style pork curry). Asia Scenic and Thai Farm Cooking School are popular options in Chiang Mai.
Visit Local Markets: Chiang Mai’s markets, like the Thanin Market and the Warorot Market, offer a treasure trove of local ingredients, many of which are used in ancient Lanna recipes. Take a stroll through the markets to discover rare herbs, vegetables, and traditional snacks.
Dine at Restaurants Specializing in Lanna Cuisine: For a deep dive into Lanna flavors, visit some of the region’s top traditional restaurants like Huen Phen and Khum Vieng Yong, where you can taste authentic dishes passed down through generations.

Conclusion: A Culinary Renaissance

The revival of Lanna cuisine in Chiang Mai is not just a trend—it’s a movement to reconnect with the region’s roots, honor traditional ways of life, and preserve a culinary heritage that was once at risk of fading into obscurity. Through the efforts of chefs, farmers, and local communities, these ancient recipes are finding their way back onto the table, offering a deeper, more nuanced understanding of northern Thailand’s rich cultural landscape.

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